But, let me not get carried away.
Leaving Brum I missed my train to Edinburgh by 2min - was my own fault though - leaving the flat a few minutes too late and forgetting that I had to get through a throng of people to reach the train station - thanks to the Christmas markets!
So, forking out another 32 quid for a train ticket - money I so had not budgeted on... I set off to Edinburgh - a 4 hour journey turned out be more like 5 due to a delay at York but made it to Edinburgh, got a little lost trying to find the right street the hostel was on - negotiating roads in the dark is always more difficult than during the day.
Spent 3 days in Edinburgh before my tour started - quite like the city. More Christmas markets and signs everywhere about road closures over that time due to Hogmany.
Did some of the must do's - went to Edinburgh Castle, which is built on volcanic rock. Walked the Royal Mile - so called because on the one end is Edinburgh Castle and on the other is Hollyrood Palace where the Queen stays when she's in Edinburgh ; walked partway up Arthur's seat and just wandered the city.
Spent a good few hours at the castle since there's quite a bit to see. The view from the castle is pretty amazing - looking out over Princess Street - the main street in Edinburgh. You also see Princess Gardens - the Nor'Loch of old - where all of Edinburgh's waste was dumped in and in the 17/1800s earned the city the name of Auld Reekie since it smelled so bad! Arthur's Seat and the Harbour can also be seen.
At the castle is a war memorial dedicated to all the Scotsman who've died in wars.
It has a sombre atmosphere - and out of respect no photographs allowed. There are books with the names of all the soldiers who died in the various wars. There's an altar type area containing a sealed box with scrolls. These scrolls contain the names of soldiers who died in WWII (if I remember corrrectly) and inscribed on the walls, it says how their names will never be forgot. It also says how there are many whose names are not written down on scrolls but they will not be forgotten either. Above this container is a statue of the arch angel Gabriel.
One quote inside the memorial I found very touching. It reads as follows:
"The whole earth is the tomb of heroic men and their story is not graven only stood over their clay but abides everywhere without visible symbol woven into the stuff of other men's lives. "
- Thucydides
War is not something I like to think about, and really don't know very much about most of them - but this memorial brought a bit of moisture to my eyes and gave me goose bumps.
Did a walking tour of Edinburgh - another New Europe tour - found it intriguing. There's lots of dark stories about Edinburgh - from hangings to hauntings. Recounting them here really won't work so if you ever do make your way to Edinburgh - do the New Edinburgh tour (www.neweuropetours.eu)
Along the Royal Mile there's this heart (Midlothian Heart) on the ground, near St Giles High Kirk - it's the only legal place to spit in Edinburgh - and comes from a tradition of spitting on the jail door that used to be there. You will find that locals give it a birth while uninformed tourists walk right across it. eeeuw.
One quote inside the memorial I found very touching. It reads as follows:
"The whole earth is the tomb of heroic men and their story is not graven only stood over their clay but abides everywhere without visible symbol woven into the stuff of other men's lives. "
- Thucydides
War is not something I like to think about, and really don't know very much about most of them - but this memorial brought a bit of moisture to my eyes and gave me goose bumps.
Did a walking tour of Edinburgh - another New Europe tour - found it intriguing. There's lots of dark stories about Edinburgh - from hangings to hauntings. Recounting them here really won't work so if you ever do make your way to Edinburgh - do the New Edinburgh tour (www.neweuropetours.eu)
Along the Royal Mile there's this heart (Midlothian Heart) on the ground, near St Giles High Kirk - it's the only legal place to spit in Edinburgh - and comes from a tradition of spitting on the jail door that used to be there. You will find that locals give it a birth while uninformed tourists walk right across it. eeeuw.
One church yard we visited - Greyfriars Kirk - is apparently of the most haunted in Edinburgh. Edinburgh used to be a walled city in the Medieval times and Greyfriars was the only church (and graveyard). It is said that within the graveyard are about 40 000 bodies - and on a rainy day - you can see bones in the mud! You also find out about body snatching, George Mackenzie and Greyfriar's Bobby - the dog who outlived his Master and stayed by his grave until the day he died.
From the grounds of Greyfriars you catch a glimpse of a really posh school - George Heriot School. Initally this school was set up for orphans, but today is one the most expensive schools in Edinburgh - and the apparent inspiration behind Hogwarts.
The tour I'd booked myself onto over Christmas started the 24th - made my way to this little narrow building on the Royal Mile - the blink and you miss kind...thinking to myself - what have I booked myself onto. It turned out to be the best tour I've been on.
The people I met, our tour guide - Bruce and just being outdoors, seeing beautiful landscapes and hearing legends behind how things came about - it was amazing. Add, that although 3 busses were doing the Christmas tour, and we'd booked out the hostels we stayed in - each bus only had 12-15 people on it. Nice.
First day of our tour we drove from Edinburgh to the Isle of Skye - this isn't normally done in a day, but the Christmas tour differs from the normal ones.
We find out about Robert the Bruce, how Mel Gibson had Braveheart all wrong and met Hamish, the hairy coo - saved from slaughter during the outbreak of mad cow disease as he was not with his herd at the time and so was not exposed to it (oh, and public outcry not to kill him)
We stopped in the small town of Killin that has the most painted view in all of Scotland - Dochart Falls
We continued on our way and entered the Highlands. The company had given each bus a gift - we played pass the parcel and with each layer unwrapped giving g the person a pack of sherbert and a lolly to dip, the last layer showed a bottle of Whisky for the bus to share - 10yr old single Malt Scotch Whisky, Aberlour. It was done by the next time we stopped - everyone taking at least one sip - what's germs between strangers? - who by then end became friends. :p
Entering the Highlands
From the Highlands, made our way to the Isle of Skye where we were going to spend Christmas and Boxing Day. Along the way drove passed the castle featured in Highlander (there can only be one...)
The tour company had organised caterers so the food we had was really really awesome. We were very well fed. We arrived at the hostel in Portree and it was nearly dinner time (We were the last bus to arrive - as would be the trend for the tour but it was all good - Bus #1 and King Bruce, totally rocked).
Buffet dinner - including haggis - which I did try the most miniscule amount of. Haggis, neeps and tatties to be exact. For those who don't know - haggis is the heart, lungs and liver of a sheep - boiled in sheeps stomach - then taken out and served with neeps and tatties (potato and turnip). Tasted okay - almost like kidney (which I last ate years and years ago), and very fresh. Not bad, but not for me.
After dinner we had live music. One of the caterers could play the guitar and the fiddle and he entertained us while we all sat around chatting and getting to know one another.
Christmas morning and we're greeted with a champagne breakfast. After breakfast - it being a free day - we made our way into the small town of Portree. A local told us about a short walk which we then did. It was a beautiful day. It may not have been a white christmas, but with clear skies, fresh air, sunshine and good company - what more could one ask for?
Our bus tended towards morbid conversation and on our walk two guys were talking about a horror movie they were going to write. When we made our way back to the hostel - for snacks and defrosting - after a game of movie charades, we ended up watching Seven (yes, the movie about the 7 deadly sins serial killer). The other busses had done their own thing, and when they saw we were watching Seven everyone of course commented about watching Seven on Christmas day.
Christmas dinner was the traditional - turkey roast, cranberry sauce, roast potatoes, veg followed by a real yum christmas pudding and custard (not something I tend to like). More after dinner music and just sitting around chatting, playing cards... really could not have asked for a better first Christmas away from home and my family.
Boxing day had us exploring a bit of the Isle of Skye. We stopped at the Old Man of Storr, walked up the hill (too small to be mountain) with spectacular views of the loch - never a lake! Once at the top we were told a story about faeries and how the Old Man of Storr came about. The story is about this man Sherman who saved a faerie's life. This faerie, Dermit, wanted to reward him but each time he asked Sherman what he wanted he said nothing. One day Sherman fell in love with a beautiful woman, Dermit happened to visit the day of his wedding and threw him the best party - with everyone coming from far and wide. Years go by, Sherman's lovely wife dies, and Sherman dies soon after of a broken heart. Dermit returns to find his property abandoned and asks about it. When he finds out he is distraught at the news, and in memory of his friend creates the huge rock - to remind everyone of the good man Sherman was, and the land that was once all his.
Christmas dinner was the traditional - turkey roast, cranberry sauce, roast potatoes, veg followed by a real yum christmas pudding and custard (not something I tend to like). More after dinner music and just sitting around chatting, playing cards... really could not have asked for a better first Christmas away from home and my family.
Boxing day had us exploring a bit of the Isle of Skye. We stopped at the Old Man of Storr, walked up the hill (too small to be mountain) with spectacular views of the loch - never a lake! Once at the top we were told a story about faeries and how the Old Man of Storr came about. The story is about this man Sherman who saved a faerie's life. This faerie, Dermit, wanted to reward him but each time he asked Sherman what he wanted he said nothing. One day Sherman fell in love with a beautiful woman, Dermit happened to visit the day of his wedding and threw him the best party - with everyone coming from far and wide. Years go by, Sherman's lovely wife dies, and Sherman dies soon after of a broken heart. Dermit returns to find his property abandoned and asks about it. When he finds out he is distraught at the news, and in memory of his friend creates the huge rock - to remind everyone of the good man Sherman was, and the land that was once all his.
Rock of Kilt view point
We had a late lunch in a local pub - very cosy, before heading back to the hostel in Portree
Last night in Portree, and another yummy dinner. The next day it was time to leave the Isle of Skye but before we did we found out about giants.
A giant, Skaharth (?not sure of the spelling) ran a warrior school. This giant really annoyed the town folk as she would take whole sheep and entire barrels of whisky without paying for anything. The town then approached an Irish giant - McCullin - to kill her. McCullin agreed. He enlisted in her warrior school and she taught him to fight. For months he learned sword fighting, hand to hand combat etc etc and in the meantime the town folk were getting impatient and reminded McCullin of his promise. So, one day out walking he drops behind Skaharth and pulls out his sword. She recognises the sound, draws her sword and they fight. For a long time - a few days. Her most precious belongings were her horses and the town folk free them, hearing their nieghing she pauses - this gives McCullin the opportunity to rid her of her sword. But, Skaharth has a dagger that she pulls out. Although McCullin has the chance to kill her he doesn't take it - looks into her eyes, she pulls out her dagger - and looks into his eyes...a long gaze, they both hold - and realise they're love. And then they get a shagging - for days on end - with sheep bouncing and nothing being still. The two get married and Skaharth turns out to be quite pleasant - all she needed was the love of a good giant. McCullin gets called back to Ireland - to fight - but he doesn't return. He left behind a pregnant Skaharth, and she named mountains after him. To hear Bruce tell this story - fantastic.
Near these mountains is a river - and Bruce told us about Mary McDonald. When she died, the town folk didn't know how old she was and guessed she was around 45. After the funeral and clearing out her cottage they found her birth certificate - turns out Mary McDonald was 95! The only thing the towns folk could contribute to her youthful looks was that Mary took a daily bath in the river. Bruce then proceeded to dunk his head in the water! Cold cold water - and of course, dared us to do the same. And we all did, save one girl. Certainly refreshing.
Last night in Portree, and another yummy dinner. The next day it was time to leave the Isle of Skye but before we did we found out about giants.
A giant, Skaharth (?not sure of the spelling) ran a warrior school. This giant really annoyed the town folk as she would take whole sheep and entire barrels of whisky without paying for anything. The town then approached an Irish giant - McCullin - to kill her. McCullin agreed. He enlisted in her warrior school and she taught him to fight. For months he learned sword fighting, hand to hand combat etc etc and in the meantime the town folk were getting impatient and reminded McCullin of his promise. So, one day out walking he drops behind Skaharth and pulls out his sword. She recognises the sound, draws her sword and they fight. For a long time - a few days. Her most precious belongings were her horses and the town folk free them, hearing their nieghing she pauses - this gives McCullin the opportunity to rid her of her sword. But, Skaharth has a dagger that she pulls out. Although McCullin has the chance to kill her he doesn't take it - looks into her eyes, she pulls out her dagger - and looks into his eyes...a long gaze, they both hold - and realise they're love. And then they get a shagging - for days on end - with sheep bouncing and nothing being still. The two get married and Skaharth turns out to be quite pleasant - all she needed was the love of a good giant. McCullin gets called back to Ireland - to fight - but he doesn't return. He left behind a pregnant Skaharth, and she named mountains after him. To hear Bruce tell this story - fantastic.
Near these mountains is a river - and Bruce told us about Mary McDonald. When she died, the town folk didn't know how old she was and guessed she was around 45. After the funeral and clearing out her cottage they found her birth certificate - turns out Mary McDonald was 95! The only thing the towns folk could contribute to her youthful looks was that Mary took a daily bath in the river. Bruce then proceeded to dunk his head in the water! Cold cold water - and of course, dared us to do the same. And we all did, save one girl. Certainly refreshing.
The McCullin Mountains
Loch
We leave the Isle of Skye and make our way to our stop for the night, Carbisdale Castle in Sutherland.
We drove along the highest road in the area - a little scary when the bus stalled on a bend and the handbrake needed a little help to do it's job! Amazing views though - we stopped halfway up, and had a birthday celebration for one of the girls on Bus #1
We drove along the highest road in the area - a little scary when the bus stalled on a bend and the handbrake needed a little help to do it's job! Amazing views though - we stopped halfway up, and had a birthday celebration for one of the girls on Bus #1
Saw a beautiful sunset (at 16.40) while we drove towards Carbisdale Castle. The castle is apparently haunted and the boys freaked out one girl with ridiculous ghost stories they made up. More good food - last night of us having caterers and after dinner, live music, and some Scottish dancing. The dancing part was good fun - although the first dance was a tad confusing with backwards, forwards, turns and going round and round making me dizzy.
There was this one girl on one fo the other busses - every night she'd be in her cow print pyjamas - top, bottom AND socks! It was like the minute we'd get to the hostel she'd get changed into her pjs. I was intrigued with the whole cow print thing! Even she partook in some scottish dancing.
Second last day of tour - and when we woke up we saw it had snowed! It may not have been a white christmas, but we did get some snow :)
From Carbisdale we made our way to Loch Ness, alas no spotting of Nessie - but we did have crazy folk taking a swim! (ok, so I was considering joining them but when I couldn't feel my toes even before entering water I was like, nevermind!) Four of the boys on our bus took a dive into the very cold Loch Ness, and on the other busses a few boys and some girls did it as well. Guarenteed numb extremeties for a few hours!
From Loch Ness we made our way to the battle field of Culloden - the last battle fought on British soil between the Jacobites and the British Army. This battle would today have been known as ethnic cleansing, as the Brits wanted to supress Scottish Patriosim. There was a time when tartan and bagpipes were illegal.
Everywhere I go - I hear about the Brits, wanting to control everything. It really is amazing how such a small country had control over most of the globe at one point in history. Safe to say, that the Brits screwed over many many countries and nations. My home country included.
Overnighted in Pitlochry, pub dinner and the last evening of hanging out with everyone. On the last day of our tour we headed to a whisky distillery. Whisky tasting, and saw the oldest cask of whisky in all of Scotland. It is nearly ready for bottling and it is rumoured that a bottle will cost around £15 000. Insanity!
After the distillery tour - and of course tasting- we headed to the home town of golf - St. Andrews. Nice town, and the most amazing ruins of St Andrews Cathedral. It is on this beach that the scene in Chariots of Fire was filmed
St Andrews to Edinburgh and we all met up for final dinner and drinks before saying goodbye :( Stuck in traffic (road closures), and we'd missed the torch parade which Bruce wanted us to see although I caught a glimpse as a headed to my hostel where I overnighted before heading to London to catch a plane to Prague.
Torch Parade along the Royal Mile
If you ever plan on making your way to Scotland and are looking for a tour company - Wild in Scotland (www.wild-in-scotland.com) is definitely one I'd recommend!
3 comments:
Sounds fantastic! I did a similar tour in feb 2000 with haggis tours, I think they were called. I found Scotland to be the most perfect place on earth. I've been back in SA for 9 years now but would love to live in Edinburgh one day. Cheers, Tazz X
Picked up on your blog from a Google news alert for Scottish Wildlife. Funny how these things happen.
Not sure what it is, maybe the way you write or something like that; but once I'd started reading I couldn't put it down (so to speak). That was two hours ago!
Wherever you go and whatever you do I sincerely hope you do well and should you ever pass through Inverness again, I would concider it a privilege to have a coffee and a natter with you, before you continue on your way.
Thanks Tazz. And thanks Ron.
:)
I'd really love to make my way back to Scotland - will see how the next few months pan out.
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